The Most Disturbing Experience of My Life

Greetings from Cambodia. Right now I’m in a town called Kampot, but most of the last week has been spent in the country’s capital, Phnom Penh.

In the last week I’ve couchsurfed, played Jimi Hendrix covers at a jam night, been “fined” (i.e. forced to pay a bribe) by Cambodian police, visited many Wats (temples), and gotten hopelessly lost in the run-down Phnom Penh ghettos/suburbs, but one experience stands out above all: The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

See, apparently there was this thing called the Khmer Rouge led by a guy called Pol Pot who in the late seventies were responsible for the death, through execution, torture or starvation, of over 2 million Cambodians – more than a quarter of the population – in the name of “purifying” the populace and purging Democratic Kampuchia of its anti-Communist enemies.

Tuol Sleng was a school converted into a prison where, over the course of Pol Pot’s brief rule, around 20,000 mostly innocent Cambodians (and a handful of foreigners) were brutally tortured for months on end before being sent to the Killing Fields outside the city to have their throats slit.

Why had I never heard of any this before? I mean, I’d been vaguely aware that there’d been a dictator somewhere in the world called Pol Pot and that he’d been a dick, but I’m not sure if before moving to Southeast Asia I could have even told you that Pol Pot was Cambodian, let alone the extent of his crimes.

Is the Cambodian Genocide relatively unknown in the West, or am I just ignorant as hell? I don’t know which one of those options I’d rather be true.

There’s no way I can do Tuol Sleng justice in writing. If you’re in PP, you need to see it for yourself, but be warned: it will stick with you. I’m a pretty hard person to shock, but the row after row of tiny cells (still with faded blood stains on the walls), cabinets full of skulls and bone fragments, and photos and paintings of mutilated corpses and bloody executions, is without exaggeration the most chilling and disturbing thing I have ever seen in my life. Tuol Sleng is the kind of place that seriously shakes your faith in humanity, and mine was low to begin with. I don’t believe in God, but if I did I’d find it hard to reconcile belief in a loving deity with a world in which the Khmer Rouge were allowed to exist.

What makes it all even more depressing was that this madness happened as recently as 1979 – barely a generation ago. The Khmer Rouge were ousted that year by an invading Vietnamese army but carried on fighting a guerrilla war from the jungle for at least another decade. (Actually I’m a bit fuzzy on all the details, I only learned all this myself a few days ago.) It’s only in the last couple of years that those responsible for the genocide have been apprehended and are now on trial. Pol Pot himself evaded justice by dying a natural death in 1998.

If you do visit Tuol Sleng, I’d recommend paying $2 for a guided tour, otherwise you don’t really know what you’re looking at. I did, and at the tour’s end we were taken to a stall in the prison’s courtyard, behind which sat two grey old Cambodian men. On the table in front of them was a selection of books about the prison and the genocide. Some of the books had photos of one or both of the two men on their covers.

“Do you recognise these two?” said my tour guide. They waved and greeted us in Khmer.

The guide pointed to a black-and-white photo I’d seen before, of seven emaciated Asian men standing arm in arm. Of over 20,000+ people who passed through Tuol Sleng, these seven – just seven - were the only people known to survive. Only two – Chum Mey and Bou Meng – are still alive, and now they spend their days at the site of their former hell on Earth, posing for pictures with tourists and selling translated copies of their autobiographies.

This to me was one of the strangest things about the whole experience. How could these men possibly bear to be back here in the prison? Wouldn’t they want to get away from it all and forget their past? Were they really comfortable being propped up on display like zoo animals all day to half-interested white people from the other side of the world?

I guess it seems strange to me, but then there’s no way I could even attempt to relate to what they’ve been through, and for that I am eternally thankful.

Tuol Sleng, of course, is just one piece of the puzzle. The other prominent tourist attraction is the cheerily-named Killing Fields, where thousands more enemies of the state were murdered one-by-one and buried in mass graves. I’d meant to visit the Killing Fields that same afternoon, but really there’s only so much genocide a man can take in one day, so I postponed my visit until a couple of mornings later.

You can get a tuk-tuk out to the fields for $10, but, fancying something different, I rented a motorbike for the day (which actually worked out cheaper) and made the half-hour drive myself.

Sunburnt arm

Next time I’ll wear long sleeves.

After the horrors of Tuol Sleng, the Killing Fields were relatively bearable, but only in the sense that a kick in the balls is more bearable than getting hit by a train.

The centerpiece is a large monument (I didn’t get any photos but Wikipedia will do) full of the exhumed skulls of the deceased. Surrounding it are dozens of pits which once contained bodies. Bullets were prohibitively expensive, so most of the victims were just hacked or bludgeoned to death. Even the children of the accused were killed, on the reasoning that if they were allowed to live, they might have grown up to seek revenge. Babies were bayoneted or had their heads smashed against a tree – the particular tree that was used for this purpose is now marked with a sign.

I could go on about the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, but it’s 2:30am and I need to go to bed. There are plenty of books out there that will give you all the sordid details but I’m not masochistic enough to read them; I’m getting depressed just typing this post. I admire your fortitude for reading all the way to the end.

A sign saying "Please Don't Walk Through The Mass Grave"

Not to make light of a heart-wrenching national tragedy, but Don’t Walk Through The Mass Grave would make a good name for a metal album

The Cu Chi Tunnels, or, How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love the Guns

May 1st is a national holiday in Vietnam, so, with the day off work, I took the opportunity to finally check out one of Saigon’s premier tourist attractions: The Cu Chi Tunnels.

This underground network of passageways and cubbyholes was built by the North Vietnamese during the war, and was a strategic stronghold that the South and the Americans repeatedly failed to conquer. Nowadays for $10 you can explore what’s left of the tunnels in their dank and dingy glory.

I never knew much about the Vietnam war until recently, so I’m only just getting to grips with how extensive and brutal the combat was. Arriving at Cu Chi, it’s hard to imagine that this peaceful forest could just forty years ago have been home to so much death and destruction.

The constant sound of gunfire in the background gives you some idea, but it’s not the full picture. More on that later.

Our tour guide was a 62 year-old war veteran called Jackie. With verve, charisma, and a shocking disregard for the rules of English grammar, he told us of all the horrors he’d seen – Agent Orange, carpet bombing from B-52s, men ensnared in punji traps, and a bunch of other things that probably would have shocked me if I’d been able to understand what he was saying.

Whatever the case, I count my blessings that I was born in England in 1990, and not – well, almost anywhere else, at almost any other point in history. Not a day goes by where I don’t remind myself how lucky I am. Today especially.

The ground around Cu Chi is littered with tiny little trapdoors, only just big enough to squeeze through. With the lid closed and some dirt and leaves sprinkled over the top, you’d have no idea they’re there, which of course is the point. I can only imagine what it must be like to fight in this jungle, knowing that your enemies could be hiding, loaded machine guns in hand, mere metres from your position, itching to jump out and murder you when you least expect it.

As I climbed in, I realised that this wasn’t just an isolated hole in the ground. At my feet was an opening, big enough to crawl through, that presumably connected my hiding spot to the entire tunnel network.

“You wan’ go explore?” said Jackie.

“Maybe. Where does it go?”

“You go over there. Go down, turn right, first way, many ways, other exit there.” He pointed at some other trees. Was there an exit hatch amongst them? I couldn’t see anything.

Exploring the tunnels might be cool though, I thought. Why not, since I’m here?

“So which way do I go?”

“You be careful,” said Jackie. “Many ways you could go. Go right way, ten minutes. Go wrong way, two hours.”

“But which way is the right way?”

“Go right, and there are many ways. This way, go right.” He gesticulated wildly, tracing a map in the air. “You no scare? Tunnel has many bats. If you scare bats, no go!”

“Bats are fine, I just don’t want to get lost. How do I get to the other hatch?”

“Right way, ten minutes. Wrong way, two hours.”

Clearly I wasn’t going to get any usable directions from Jackie, so my thoughts were the same as yours: Fuck this. I’m all for adventure and exploration, but not when there’s a risk of me getting lost and isolated in a pitch-black, bat-filled, underground digestive tract.

Still, checking out the first little section of tunnel seemed pretty risk-free. A few of us piled in.

I’ve already talked about how hellish Cu Chi must have been for the attackers. Crawling into the three-foot high tunnel with my hands and knees in the dirt, I realised it must have been even worse for the defenders. Hot and sweaty, dank and dismal, with no room to stand up or overtake the person in front of you - I jumped as something fluttered past my head. Jackie hadn’t been kidding about the bats.

Don't let the flash fool you - you can't see your hand in front of you in this place.

Don’t let the flash fool you – you can’t see your hand in front of you in this place.

I made it about ten metres in before deciding I’d had enough. It’s hard to believe that people lived in there for months at a time.

Gunfire was still rattling from somewhere in the forest. We moved in its general direction, towards the next stop on the itinerary: an exhibit of the various kinds of traps that the Vietnamese deployed against each other during the war. Behind a fence sat a row of holes in the ground, each full of spikes arranged in different patterns. They varied in their size, depth, and the particular way they were designed to rupture your body, but they all had one thing in common: they were utterly horrifying. I winced just looking at them.

Note the cartoon GIs getting maimed in the background.

Note the cartoon GIs getting maimed in the background.

As Jackie explained the mechanics of the fourth trap, with its downward-pointing barbs designed not to kill but to trap your leg until you bled to death, I pondered just how depraved you’d have to be to design such a thing.

Then I realised, are the people behind these traps really different from us in any fundamental way? I don’t think so.

It’s incredible what human beings are capable of doing to each other, given the right (or wrong) circumstances. Who’s to say that I’d have acted any better if I’d had to go through the horrors that so many Vietnamese went through in the 60s?

If I’d been born a few generations earlier, I’d surely have ended up in one war or another, if not against the Germans then against the Ottomans, the Boers, the French, the American revolutionaries, or any of the other countless nations that England has battled over the years. Who knows what depths I might have sunk to if it had been my life on the line? It’s an unsettling thought. Once again: I count my blessings.

Vietnam is at peace now, but the end of a war isn’t always a good thing, especially if you happen to be on the losing side. Jackie had fought for South Vietnam. When the ARVN lost the war, he was thrown in jail.

“I was in prison for three years,” he told us. “I was very happy to go to prison,”

Happy? Really? Why?

“Because I am survivor. In war, easy die. I thought I die. But I survive. In prison, I knew I would not die. Prison much better than war.”

Everything is relative.

This concluded the tour, but there was still one place left to visit: the shooting range, which was the source of the aforementioned gunfire.

This is the other attraction at Cu Chi – their stock of authentic Vietnam War-era rifles and machine guns. For a reasonable price, you can go nuts against a bunch of targets with any gun you want! I didn’t need to be told twice.

In typical Vietnamese fashion, regulations were non-existent. Just choose your weapon from a menu that reads like the character creation screen in Counter Strike, hand over a fistful of Dong, grab a rifle and Rambo’s your uncle. The guns are mounted in such a way that you can’t point them where anyone might be standing, but the nonchalant way in which anyone can stroll up to the range and be shooting within twenty seconds would give a British health-and-safety inspector a much-deserved heart attack.

Drawing on the extensive knowledge of firearms I gained from a childhood wasted playing violent videogames, I elected for the gentleman’s choice: The AK-47.

Say what you will about gun control; all I know is that this is the coolest I have ever looked.

Say what you will about gun control; all I know is that this is the coolest I have ever looked.

Now, I’m from England, where guns are as rare as funny episodes of Big Bang Theory. I have no desire to own a gun, I do not feel like owning a gun would make me safe, and a society in which people feel like they need to carry firearms to protect themselves is not a society I want to live in. I am proud of my home country’s gun-free culture, and I hope it never changes.

That being said, there is one fact which I feel gets overlooked amidst all the current controversy: Guns are cool.

Seriously. Blasting that target to shreds with an Kalashnikov was the most fun I’ve had in a while. Now I understand why Americans are so reluctant to part with their boomsticks. Shooting things rocks!

My only regret is that, at 35,000Đ ($1.75) a bullet, I could only afford a few rounds of explosive amusement. If money was no object, I wouldn’t have hesitated to drop a few hundred dollars on a big stack of magazines and go full-auto against some unsuspecting cardboard cutout. Maybe even have a go on this beast:

So frickin’ awesome.

Legend has it that somewhere in Cambodia you can pay $300 to blow up a cow with a rocket launcher. While the former vegetarian in me is horrified, the former Call of Duty-player has a new goal in life.

Thoughts on the Vietnamese Language

Saigon Couchsurfing meetupI’ve been in Vietnam for just over two months now. A lot of stuff has happened in that time, and most of it has happened in English. There’s a tight-knit and growing expat community here and I’ve been spending most of my time in it.

Of course, that community isn’t completely insular, and I’ve been hanging out with plenty of English-speaking Vietnamese too. Add that to the fact that most of Saigon’s 7 million inhabitants speak no English whatsoever, and I’ve had plenty of opportunity to practice the Vietnamese language.

Well, I’ve had the opportunity, I just haven’t been taking much of it.

I’ve made some effort though. While Vietnamese has many interesting features that (unsurprisingly) are radically different from anything European, I like to think I’ve got a decent grasp of the basics.

Vietnamese 101

Everyone LOVES to talk about how hard Vietnamese is (usually just to make excuses for their own failure to learn it), but I actually think Vietnamese has a lot of aspects that are very easy! There are no irregulars, no genders, the spelling is highly phonetic, the tenses are extremely simple, and it’s one of the few languages in the region for which you don’t have to learn an entirely new alphabet. (Compare Vietnamese’s tôi là ngửơi Anh to Thai’s “ฉันมาจากอังกฤษ”!)

Of course, like all languages, Vietnamese has hard aspects. By far the most intimidating of those is the pronunciation, which is VERY difficult for a European to master or even understand.

Try and say j’ai vingt-deux ans after hearing it once, and a French person will probably understand you, even if he cringes so hard at your pronunciation that he spills cigarette ash all over his baguette and starts drawing up terms of surrender.

On the other hand, if you attempt to say tôi hai mười hai tuổi without practice and coaching, you’ve got about as much chance as a Laotian rice farmer against an unexploded landmine.

Then again, it works both ways… so far I’ve met maybe 3 Vietnamese people who can pronounce anything reasonably close to “George”. “Chosh”, “Jaw” and “Jog” are popular alternatives. I’ve long since given up trying to correct people.

Lost in Translation

Vietnamese has 6 tones, meaning that ma can mean “mother”, “ghost”, “tomb”, “horse”, “but” or “rice seedling” depending on the pitch of voice you say it in. I find this fascinating – to a native speaker of a tonal language, , and mạ are COMPLETELY different words – as far apart as “meet”, “might”, “mate” and “moat” would sound to an English speaker. Screw up your tones, and people will have no idea what you’re trying to say.

The other day I tried to say to someone “do you speak Vietnamese?”, butchered the tones, and what they heard was “is your grandma having a contest?” That was a confusing ten seconds. Tones are hard.

Probably the most bizarre feature of Vietnamese is that it has no word for “you”. Instead, you address people by kinship terms such as “brother”, “uncle” and “friend”, depending on their age and gender. It can be confusing at first, but it doesn’t take too long to get used too, and it’s an interesting insight into Vietnamese culture.

Vietnamese also has BIG regional variations. Even I can generally hear the difference between the Hanoi and Saigon accent, and that’s without understanding a word being said. This has actually been a frustration, because almost all the teaching materials you can find online teach NORTHERN Vietnamese, which isn’t what I wanted to learn as it’s not where I live. (The Southern dialect has more speakers, but North Vietnam won the war and Hanoi Vietnamese is considered “official”.)

And tons of Vietnamese have told me that even they, as native speakers, can’t understand people from the central city of Huế. It’s Vietnam’s Liverpool.

The Most Challenging Aspect of Vietnamese

From all of the above, you might think that I know a lot about the Vietnamese language. Don’t be fooled.

While I can get by in simple situations like ordering food or introducing myself, my level of the language is still very low. My pronunciation is appalling, and my listening comprehension is even worse. It’s a rare day when people understand me on the first try. For two months in the country, my Vietnamese could be a lot better.

And sadly to report, it’s probably not going to improve much further. At the time of writing, I’ve made virtually no effort with Vietnamese in nearly three weeks, and I can’t see myself picking up the pace again any time soon. I’ve simply lost my interest.

See, my biggest problem with Vietnamese hasn’t been tones, pronunciation or pronouns, but motivation. Learning a language is a marathon, not a sprint, and try as I might, I can’t find a strong enough reason to keep me going on this one.

Six months ago, I had no idea I’d be in Vietnam right now, and Vietnamese was NOT a language I ever thought I’d study. Unlike, say, German, which I’ve known for a long time I want to tackle eventually, Vietnamese just doesn’t ignite enough of a spark in me to justify the effort required for fluency. I was enthusiastic at first, but the thrill of the new can only take you so far.

Living in the country isn’t enough. It’s VERY easy to get by here on English alone, and the vast majority of expats do just that. I thought I’d be different, but I’ve fallen right into the same trap as everyone else.

I’m not trying to make excuses – I could easily have structured my life in an English-minimising way if I’d really wanted to. There are plenty of ways I could seek extra motivation - I could make a bet, sign up for an exam, drop money on a language course – but it’s not going to happen.

(The other common recommendation is to get a Vietnamese girlfriend, which hasn’t happened yet, but I know expats who’ve done just that and still can’t even say “my name is”, so I have my doubts about its effectiveness. Whatever the case, if you see me retracting this post and dusting off my phrasebook, you’ll can probably write it off as another case of yellow fever.)

All is not lost!

Don’t get me wrong – even if I never spoke a word of Vietnamese again from today, I wouldn’t regret the effort I’ve made so far.

Languages aren’t an all-or-nothing thing, and even my current shitty level has had a lot of positives. I’ve had some cool experiences I wouldn’t otherwise had had and made friends I wouldn’t otherwise have met.

Even being able to haggle prices without using English (actually they usually don’t speak English so you have to write down and cross out numbers until you reach agreement), understand basic signage, and exchange pleasantries with shopkeepers has enriched my time here in a small but enjoyable way that’s definitely been worth it. I don’t know why anyone would want to spend more than a few weeks in a country without making at least that small effort.

This has confirmed for me that travelling without learning the local language is EXTREMELY limiting. I don’t plan on doing much more of it.

Vietnamese might not have stoked my fires, but my passion for languages overall has definitely increased. I know for sure they’re going to be a big focus of mine over the next few years, and I’m looking forward to the next one.

Hẹn gặp lại các bạn.

\m/

PS On the off chance anyone reading this is thinking about learning Vietnamese themselves, send me an email. I might not be fluent, but I can help you get started, tell you about some resources I found and hopefully save you from making the same mistakes I did.

First Impressions of Vietnam

So here I am in Ho Chi Minh City, AKA Saigon, AKA my home for probably the rest of 2013. I’ve been here a week now, found a place to live, and feel more or less settled in.

The number question I got asked before moving out here (except maybe “are you fucking serious?”) was “are you nervous?”, and, to be honest, I really wasn’t. I’ve travelled enough by now that settling in to an unfamiliar city is nothing out of the ordinary.

Still, though, I didn’t really know what to expect of Saigon. Would it be a gleaming metropolis? A grey and dismal urban sprawl? Just like Bangkok, except without all the transexual prostitutes? As it turns out, it’s a very cool city and I think I’m going to like living here a lot.

A few musings:

- I definitely prefer Saigon to Bangkok, which is the only other major city I’ve been to in this part of the world. To be fair, I’m living in the town centre here and very much experiencing the “real” Saigon, whereas in Bangkok I did nothing but stay in the hyper-touristic part of town and get drunk with fellow backpackers, so it’s probably not a fair comparison. Still, it’s nice to be able to walk down the street without being pestered every three steps by touts and ladyboys.

- Here’s an interesting fact about the people of Vietnam: they all have the same goddamn surname. Well, not quite, but according to Wikipedia, a mere 14 family names are shared between around 90% of the population. I’ve already lost track of the amount of people I’ve met called Nguyễn – it’s like Smith, Williams, Johnson and Brown all rolled into one. Apparently the Vietnamese took naming hints from the Marklars.

- You know how everyone’s house smells different, but you can’t smell your own? My first few days here, every inhalation tasted of pollution and exhaust fumes. Now the air feels squeaky clean. This probably isn’t a good sign.

- I’m apparently now a person who spends a lot of time in coffee shops. Back in England I’d visit coffee shops maybe once a month; but since arriving here I’ve been spending all day in them every day. Next thing you know I might even start drinking coffee.

- Like every other third-world country I’ve been to, the roads here are fucking nuts. Traffic laws appear to be optional, and I feel like writing my will every time I cross the road. (Pro tip: always look both ways, even on a one-way street.) And the motorbikes. Holy shit, the motorbikes. They’re everywhere. There’s no way I can do justice in writing to the sheer quantity of xe may on the road here. I’d estimate less than 1% of the vehicles on HCMC roads have more than two wheels. My landlord has a motorbike for rent, but I’m sure if I tried to keep pace with the HCMC traffic I’d be dead within two days.

- Did you know the Vietnam war ended nearly 40 years ago? I mean, I did know that, but it never really clicked that 1975 is starting to become a fairly long time ago. I’ve always thought of the conflict as “recent history”; in fact the Fall of Saigon occurred closer to the Great Depression than to the present day. Mindblowing.

- Vietnamese is both the easiest and most difficult language I’ve ever looked into. Some aspects, like the grammar, are ridiculously easy, and I can already read and write the language reasonably well. (This isn’t because I’m such a linguistic genius that I picked it up within a week of arrival – I’ve been studying on-and-off since December.)

My attempts to speak, on the other hand, usually get met with blank stares. The pronunciation is horrific and contains all sorts of bizarre vowels that in England would be considered signs of a stroke. I do definitely want to make an effort with the language though, if only because I’ve dabbled in far too many languages recently without becoming fluent in any of them and it’s well past time I picked one and knuckled down on it. A big priority of mine over the next few years is to finally get some languages under my belt, so Vietnamese seems like a good place to start. Tôi phải làm việc siêng năng!

- That being said, I know if I wanted I could live here all year without learning a single word of anything. I’ve spent most of my time so far in the English-speaking expat bubble here and it would be far too easy to never look beyond it.

But why would I want to stick with English? I’ve already found the tiny bit of Vietnamese I have learned to be enlightening. I absolutely believe that the worldwide dominance of English is little more than an illusion and by limiting yourself to English you’re blocking yourself off from 99% of what a country has to offer. I can’t imagine spending all year here without at least picking up the basics.

(Benny from FluentIn3Months.com has a lot to say about this. I love his blog and I HIGHLY recommend it, not just to language learners but to anyone interested in travel in general.)

-  I’ve yet to hear a single Vietnamese person speak French; as far as I can tell that colonial remnant has been completely usurped by English. I still hope I can brush up on my French though while I’m here. I’ve been speaking to some expatriés on CouchSurfing and hopefully I’ll be able to arrange a meetup. I can really feel my French starting to slip away from and I don’t want to see it go!

- I’ve been saying for years that Britain should scrap our copper coins and measure all prices in multiples of 5p. Well, Vietnam has the same problem, but to the extreme. Not only could they knock four zeroes off the end of their currency with no meaningful loss in granularity, but they have notes which are literally worth less than one UK penny. It’s an interesting feeling having so much cash it won’t even fit in your wallet, but still not enough to buy lunch.

- Don’t get me wrong though, it’s still mindblowingly cheap here. I’m making a pitiful amount of money by Western standards but still living nice and comfortably. My rent is half the price of the cheapest place I lived at university (and the room is nicer than any of them). My gym membership is US$9 a month and I’ve been eating out for almost every single meal. I could definitely get used to this.

- And finally, I signed up to the Dynamite Circle before coming out here. It seemed like the logical choice seeing as everyone I’m working for and with is already a member. Joining has been a great choice (even though I feel preposterously underqualified to be there). It’s not often I get to hang out with people who eat paleo, are into evolutionary psychology, think university is a waste of time, reject all the traditional notions of “success” and generally hold anything remotely resembling my worldview, but since coming to Vietnam I’ve been doing it every day. I am definitely in the right place, and the only thing I’m unsure about is why I didn’t come here years ago.

Right, now I’m off to a coffee shop to get some work done.

Ronnie James Dio Had It All Wrong

I’ve spent a lot of time recently talking to strangers on the Internet.

That is to say, I’ve been emailing bloggers and writers whose work I enjoy to let them know I appreciate what they do, and occasionally to ask a question or get a bit of advice. It’s worth the effort; You’d be surprised how reachable most of these people are.

Sometimes I get a reply, sometimes I don’t. Sometimes I write stuff that doesn’t do me any favours, sometimes I hit the nail on the head, in either case I learn from it and I calibrate. I wish I’d started years ago; it’s had just about the highest return on investment of anything I’ve ever done.

The biggest return of all came round about last November, when I got put touch with an American software developer who runs his own business, travels the world and lives the exact lifestyle I aspire to. To hell with the University Careers Service; THIS is who I should be seeking advice from.

I explained my situation: I’m at university, bored of it, feel like I’m wasting my time and money, learning far more from the little bits of actual work I do than anything on my course, and desperate to get out of rainy Manchester and join the ranks of location-independent world-travelling freelancers/entrepreneurs such as yourself. Is there any point completing my computer science degree?

His exact words are worth reprinting:

I would get the hell out of college immediately, if you’re not there to have fun and chase girls. There’s nothing else that a college computer sci department can offer you that you can’t get for free off the web. I have a degree, but I wouldn’t recommend it to my younger self now. And my younger self not being available to give advice to, I hereby bequeath that advice to you.

A college degree helps you land your first job, then is generally looked at by no one again. I had a stellar GPA and graduated Summa Cum Laude and who ever knew about it? My first employer, and that’s the end of the list, I think.

This contradicts what many others have told me, but when two people offer me conflicting advice, I apply a simple judgement criterion: “Which of these people do I want to be more like?” This is never a difficult question.

Now it’s a few months later, and the aforementioned entrepreneur has made me a job offer. Gotta love serendipity. I dropped out of university to accept the offer, and I’m moving to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, as that’s where the job is. I’m literally moving right now; I wrote this on the plane and I’m publishing it from the free wifi at Moscow SVO.

I’ve always known I wanted to leave the UK and do something like this; I just didn’t imagine it would happen so soon. I can’t lose sight of the fact that I still need to work hard and do a good job, but nevertheless I’m very, very happy with the latest developments in my life.

I should talk to strangers more often.

It’s Not Your Fault You’re Fucked

On the surface, it’s a pretty scary time to be young. The world is changing in drastic, unpredictable ways, you don’t know what to do with yourself or how you can get a grip, and none of the advice anyone’s giving you seems remotely helpful. You’ve spent a decade and a half in education, under the guise of preparing you for adulthood, but now adulthood is looming (or is it already here?) and you’re just as lost and confused as you were five years ago. Have you learned nothing? Why can’t you figure it out?

Yeah, I’m not gonna lie, you’re fucked. What, you were expecting me to sugarcoat it? Let’s be realistic. The world’s problems run deeper than you can possibly imagine, and they’re going to get much worse before they ever get better. And chances are pretty good that you, yes, you who studied so hard and thought you were special, don’t stand a chance.

Luckily, there’s a silver lining in this cloud, and there’s a very, very important message that young people desperately need to hear: It’s not your fault.

Here’s my favourite article I’ve read in the last six months, from one of my favourite writers, Tucker Max: What You Need To Know About Life, But Haven’t Been Taught. Its the text of a speech he gave to students at Pittsburgh University, and if you’re under 25,  the first few paragraphs should be compulsory reading:

Do you feel ready for your life? Do you feel prepared to face whats coming when you leave here?

I doubt it. …

Seriously, do you know any of the basic skills that you will need in life–how to negotiate a rent? How to get a job? How to even develop the skills you’ll need at a job? Do you know how to manage your finances? I know you don’t – how many of you have under $100 in your checking account?

You’re all totally fucked!

But I bet you hear this all the time don’t you? 

You hear it from your parents, you hear from your professors, from administrators, from the press…from everyone. They all tell you how fucked up you are, they all tell you what you need to change about yourself.

Here’s the difference: I’m not going to tell you its your fault. Thats what you’re always told, that its your fault, right?

It’s not. Your parents and your educational institutions have completely and utterly failed you. They really have only one job, and that’s to educate you. For what? Fun? No, for life. They need to teach you the things that matter in an honest, truthful way. But they haven’t. They have failed you, and THAT is why you are so fucking unprepared for whats coming.

I don’t know where to even begin in describing all the evidence I’ve seen for this in my own life.

I could talk about how when I moved out of my parents’ house at 19, I was so utterly unable to function as an adult that I might as well have been 12 years old. My first year of university was the most disastrous, worthless waste of time I can possibly imagine experiencing. My parents had spent hundreds of thousands of pounds sending me to ten years of private school, and I didn’t even know how to shop for groceries.

I could talk about how it’s only three years later that I feel like I’ve started to get any grip whatsoever, only through repeated trial and error (mostly error) and with no help from university itself. While I’ve learned a lot about life during university, the valuable lessons I’ve been taught by university I could fit on the back of a postage stamp.

I could talk about the number of people I’ve spoken to recently who have told me they’re sick of uni, that they’ve thought about dropping out but the decision is so scary, that they have no idea what they want to do with their lives, that they look at people a few years further down the same path they’re on and they don’t like what they see, that they feel like they’re wasting their time but don’t know how else to spend it and their parents just. don’t. understand. What should they do?

I could talk about how, barring one friend who’s gone travelling, EVERY SINGLE PERSON I’ve spoken to who graduated last summer is now living at home making £6 an hour if they have a job at all, and in most cases they’re just as directionless as they were at 18. We’re at the point now where being totally unprepared and clueless for life in the real world is so widespread it’s barely even questioned. That degree you spent £10k and 3 years on didn’t deliver any of the things it promised, but that’s okay because neither did anybody else’s! Whatever purpose you think schooling should serve, it’s hard to think of one at which it isn’t failing.

Of course, it’s still a great time to be in your twenties. Seriously. You think all the above means I’m not happy to have been born in 1990? Are you kidding? There’s more opportunity right now for young people than there’s ever been at any point in history. Our lifetimes have seen a breakdown of barriers in ways our parents could never have even dreamed of. It’s never been easier to discover something you love, carve your own path in the world and live the life of your dreams. I haven’t worked out how exactly, but I’ve learned enough to convince me that it’s possible.

And if you don’t believe that the previous paragraph is true, then, well, like Tucker Max said, it’s not your fault.

 

[PS: Despite all of this, I don't think we can get too angry at our parents. All they did was give us the same advice that worked for them. Shortsighted, maybe, but they cared, and they tried.

Universities, on the other hand, have got a lot more to answer for.]

What I’m Reading, January 2013

Mastery by Robert Greene

There’s a lot of hype around this book at the moment, and it’s justified. It really is phenomenal.

I don’t think I can overstate just how much Robert Greene’s books have shaped my thinking and impacted my life as I was growing up. The 48 Laws of PowerThe Art of Seduction and The 33 Strategies of War I would all rank within my top 10 favourite and most influential books of all time; I constantly refer back to them and I’m still finding new ways to apply their lessons even years after I first read them.

So it’s no small statement to say that I think Mastery is the best thing he’s ever written.

What makes some people throughout history rise above the rest and make such huge, lasting contributions to humanity? When we look at such masters, we tend to explain away their genius as something that they are, as if it’s just “talent” or luck in the genetic lottery, but the real answer is it’s something that they do, and Greene set out to answer the question “What exactly?” Through analysis of dozens of the greatest masters of all time – people like Einstein, Da Vinci, Mozart, Darwin, many more – Greene lays out the path to mastery as a clear and repeatable – albeit extremely long and arduous – process that anyone can learn to follow.

I’m currently in phase 1 - The Apprenticeship Phase – of that process, and this book is going to be an incredible resource as I progress onto the next. If you have any kind of ambition to do anything with your life whatsoever, you need to read Mastery.


The Mating Mind by Geoffrey Miller

I am absolutely fascinated by evolutionary biology. It is by far the subject on which I have read the most, and every new book I read gives me fascinating new insights about the human mind and what makes people tick. The Mating Mind gave me a lot of those insights.

TMM starts off with an intriguing question – if our brains evolved to help us survive, why do they possess such untold capacity for art, music, humour, language and all the other intricacies of human culture? Clearly these things go far beyond what’s required for mere survival, and evolution usually trims away all but the absolutely necessary. So why bother?

Miller’s argument is that the human brain, and human culture, were shaped not by natural selection but by Darwin’s lesser-known theory of sexual selection. The mind, and everything we create with it, are the human equivalent of the peacock’s tail; they exist not to keep us alive but to keep us reproducing. We actually expend so much energy growing and using our brains that it hinders our survival, but survival is worthless if we don’t impress the opposite sex enough to pass on our genes. All of human culture is nothing but a complex, intricate mating ritual.

A lot of people don’t realise that studying evolutionary theory actually has a lot of practical application. It is the purest form of social science, and my prediction is that over the next few centuries as evpsych gains more traction it will come to replace sociology, anthropology, criminology and all related fields as the one correct way of explaining human behaviour. If you want to understand people, you need to understand evolution.


Pigeon English by Stephen Kelman.

My mum tells me I’m related to Stephen Kelman. I can’t remember how exactly; I’ve never met him and wouldn’t even know his name if this book hadn’t been published. Pigeon English is a novel told through the eyes of an 11 year-old Ghanaian immigrant called Harrison Opoku, freshly arrived in the UK and living on a poor estate in central London. 5 minutes before the opening scene, a boy from Harrison’s school is stabbed to death, and he takes it on himself to solve the murder mystery.

Pigeon English starts off promisingly, and paints a gritty and emotive picture of young life in a rough part of London, but ultimately I think it’s a missed opportunity. Most of the characters – apart from Harrison himself, who is brilliant – are woefully underdeveloped, and the “whodunnit” plot jumps around aimlessly and ends in a total cop-out. It’s not a bad book, but I can’t help but think that the only reason it got nominated for the Man Booker prize is because it’s about teenage knife crime.


Minimalism by Joshua Fields Millburn & Ryan Nicodemus

I love the blog The Minimalists, but this is just an uninspired “me too” book that adds very little to the discussion.

Despite the title, there’s very little in here about the philosophy of minimalism. Instead it’s just a collection of generic self-help chapters – one on health, one on relationships, one on finding your passion, etc etc – full of recycled advice that’s been said better a million times before. If you’re new to self-help, maybe you’ll find some insight in here, but I I can’t say I learned much, and a lot of the content (especially the chapter on health) is so obvious it’s almost patronising.

That being said, it’s an easy read that you can get through in one sitting, and I did like the concept of “anchors”. If you’re a big fan of the Minimalists, it’s maybe worth the (cheap) price tag just to learn a bit more about their back story; if not just stick with the blog.


It’s been far too long since the last time I wrote a post like this, so I have a big backlog of books I could write about, but frankly I can’t be bothered. Here’s, to the best of my memory, what else I’ve read since September: The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People by Stephen Covey, The Siege by Helen Dunmore, Capitalism & Freedom by Milton Friedman, Tuesdays With Morrie by Mitch Albom, Convert! by Ben Hunt, Speak From Day One by Benny Lewis, The Power of Eye Contact by Michael Ellsberg, Sex on the Brain by Deborah Blum, Unprotected – A Campus Psychiatrist Reveals How Political Correctness In Her Profession Endangers Every Student by Miriam Grossman MD, and So Good They Can’t Ignore You by Cal Newport, which I already wrote about. The ones in bold I particularly recommend. I also reread two of my favourite books: The Game by Neil Strauss and The War of Art by Steven Pressfield.

(I can’t be bothered to put in Amazon links for all of those. Google is your friend.)

2012

I meant to get this post finished in time for my 22nd birthday, on the 26th. That didn’t happen, so I told myself I’d have it ready by the new year. Well, that didn’t happen either, but better late than never. The following is, in what I hope will become an annual tradition, my thoughts on the year that’s just gone by: what went well, what went wrong and what I think I’ve learned.

To summarise, my 22nd trip around the sun has had some incredible highs and miserable lows, but overall it’s probably been the best year of my life. Here’s to year 23.

It’s also without a doubt been the most eventful year of life. A hell of a lot has happened to me in the last 12 months. January 2012 feels like a lifetime ago. I’ve moved house twice, started a new job, learned new skills, tried new things, read over 60 books, and met all kinds of cool and interesting new people. I’ve spent over 2 months outside the UK, in 9 foreign countries on 3 separate trips. I’ve had major breakthroughs and I’ve made unbelievable fuck-ups, and I’ve learned huge amounts from both. Here comes the highlight reel:

Warning: this post is both long, at over 4000 words, and extremely self-indulgent. If the idea of me talking at great length about myself sounds like something you’d be interested in (hi Mum), feel free to read it all the way through. If not, you may still enjoy certain parts, so clicky click these linky links and skip around:

  1. The Hitch
  2. Health
  3. Southeast Asia
  4. Music
  5. Books
  6. Facebook
  7. In summary…

The Hitch

A random German driver and myself

A random German driver and myself

I spent my Easter break hitch-hiking across Europe, from Manchester to Croatia. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: the two weeks I spent riding in strangers’ cars through the UK, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia were probably the best thing I’ve ever done. The only reason I say “probably” is because it’s the second time I did it (I hitch-hiked to Morocco in 2011), and I can’t choose between the two.

I already wrote about this at length, so rather than repeat myself I’ll just link to my original post: Life Lessons From Hitch-Hiking Across Europe Twice.

Health

I’ve never been overweight, smoked, or had any major health issues, so I always considered myself a reasonably healthy guy. Sort of like how everyone thinks they’re a reasonably good driver, that they read slightly faster than average and they’re not influenced by advertising.

This year, having made some significant changes to my diet and lifestyle, I now realise that I was wrong. What I thought was “reasonably healthy” was in fact pretty poor. The only reason I thought it was okay is because the average state of health in the UK is so depressingly bad that mediocre looks extraordinary.

I started 2012 as a vegetarian, briefly dabbling in veganism. While I’m definitely glad for this experience and learned a lot from it, I eventually just couldn’t avoid the conclusion any longer that humans are natural omnivores. The Paleo Diet by Loren Cordain was the final nail in my veggie coffin and I added meat back into my diet around March. (Tim Ferriss’s The 4-Hour Body was an eye-opener too.)

I still have a lot of respect for vegetarians and vegans. (Merely by giving a second’s thought to the consequences of what you eat, you’ve done more than 99% of people will ever do. And, like I’ve said before, I think the books Eating Animals and The Vegetarian Myth should be compulsory reading for every human on the planet.) Ultimately, I want the same thing as you guys: widespread good health, a sustainable future and humane, conscious farming practices. I just disagree on the means.

The story doesn’t stop there though. Cordain’s book sent me down a rabbit hole from which I’m yet to emerge. The paleo diet isn’t just about eating meat; it’s about questioning every assumption of modern agricultural society and rejecting the neolithic non-foods that are destroying humanity. It’s one of those things where, on learning about it, you think “why don’t more people know about this?” Then you get sucked in further and further and you realise that the whole situation is far, far worse than you could ever have possible imagined.

I can’t possibly share everything I’ve learned in the space of one blog post, but there is one thing I now firmly believe: just about every commonly-held belief about health and diet is dangerously wrong. And if you think this is a radical claim, ask yourself: if the commonly-held beliefs about diet are right, then why is everybody so fat?

There’s this notion floating about that once you hit thirty your body should just start deteriorating, getting overweight and creaky, and that this is just a normal part of getting old that you can’t do anything about – in your thirties! This is just so unbelievably preposterous it’s staggering – name one other mammal that deteriorates like this immediately after reaching child-bearing age – yet the world has gone so insane that billions of people just accept it as fact. In the best article on health I’ve ever read, Michael Ellsberg calls this “collective cultural insanity” and I agree 100%.

I have a quote from the same article stuck on my wall:

Your cloudy, depressed, hung over, caffeine-jacked-up, sugar-high, sugar-crash, foggy, unclear consciousness just appears as ‘reality’ to you, and you have not the slightest idea that there is actually so much more available to you in your own consciousness, beyond what occurs to you as ‘just the way things are’ now, if you were to clean out your system of all the toxic junk you’re putting in it.

I can absolutely relate to what Ellsberg is saying here. The moment I stopped eating grains, it was like my brain had shifted up into sixth gear after trundling along in fourth for 21 years. Imagine putting on glasses for the first time after having blurry vision your entire life – except for your entire mind. I’m not exaggerating. When I eat a high-carb meal now I can feel the fogginess and fatigue settling in within the hour. “Christ,” I think every time. “Is this how I used to feel every day?”

(By the way, if your reaction to that quote is defensiveness… you’re proving Ellsberg’s point.)

I’m far from a paragon of perfect health now, and I still have a long way to go. I’ve always been skinny (especially when I was vegan), I can’t cook for shit, and I don’t enjoy exercise enough to do it for it’s own sake. But with the results I’ve seen so far on this path – not just in terms of how I feel but in the knock-on effect it’s had on every other area of my life – I know I’m onto something huge.

Being the big believer in continual self-improvement that I am, I do have couple of health experiments planned for this year. Right now I’m in the middle of going 30 days without eating gluten or refined sugar. I don’t eat much of these things anymore anyway, but I want to see what happens if I get a bit stricter in avoiding them. So far I’m enjoying the results.

Oh, and I quit drinking a few months ago too. I’ve already written enough about that. Suffice to say that it’s been a good decision and I haven’t looked back. (Actually, to tell the truth, I got hammered on New Year’s Eve, just as an experiment to double-check I wasn’t missing anything. I’m not.)

Southeast Asia

Annoyingly, even with the poor light this is the only half-decent group photo I can find with me in it.

Annoyingly, even with the poor light this is the only half-decent group photo I can find with me in it.

For years I’d been obsessed with the idea of visiting Southeast Asia. I don’t know exactly where this fixation came from, but in summer 2012 I finally caved in and spent more than I could reasonably afford on a 6-week stint in Thailand and Laos.

I’ve tried on several attempts to write up my thoughts on this trip, but kept on giving in. Not because I had nothing to say, but because getting my thoughts into writing kept on leading to realisations that weren’t easy to process.

Here’s a fact of human psychology: when someone invests a lot of money, time and energy into something, they rate it far higher than they would have if they’d had the exact same experience for free. And if someone spends a four-figure sum on what they thought would be the trip of a lifetime and it doesn’t live up to their expectations, they find that very hard to accept and they tell themselves – and anyone who asks – that they had a better time than they actually did.

So it’s only now, over 5 months after I got home (wow has that time flown) and after a lot of introspection, that I’ve come to accept that the whole trip wasn’t really as great as I’d convinced myself it had been.

Don’t get me wrong; for the most part I enjoyed myself and I don’t regret going. (It was far better than anything I’d have done if I’d stayed in England.) But if I could go back there’s a LOT I’d do differently. Thailand and Laos weren’t the problem; I was.

Thailand (which is where I spent most of my time) is a beautiful, diverse country with a rich history and culture and a huge variety of things to do and see. At least, that’s what I’ve heard. I didn’t get much of that because I spent most of my time sleeping in hungover and drinking cocktails by the bucket. (That’s not hyperbole – alcohol in Thailand is literally served in buckets.) I was told before I went that Thailand is over-commercialised and overrun with tourists, and it definitely lived up to the hype. A friend I met out there summed it up perfectly: “Ko Phangan is the rich kid’s Malia.”

Not that I’m claiming to be any better than the average tourist. Everyone you meet out there (which, at the time of year I went, consists at least 80% of British university students on their summer break like myself) acknowledges that south Thailand is being destroyed by the tourist industry… but that doesn’t stop anybody, including me, from going right ahead and contributing to that decline anyway.

To be fair, not all of Thailand is like this, just the parts I went to. For me to complain that Thailand is nothing but pissed-up Westerners would be like like spending two weeks in the south of Florida and complaining that the USA has no ski resorts. You get what you go looking for, and I didn’t go looking for much that I couldn’t have got at home. On the surface, it was a lot of fun, but I couldn’t shake the feeling that something was missing.

This was the fourth time in four years I’ve been backpacking (sixth if you count the two Hitches), but was unique in at least two ways. Firstly, I travelled with only hand luggage. Wow – what a game-changer. It really is so much better and easier. Why on Earth did I lug so much junk around with me on all my other trips? I’m never checking in hold luggage again. (Shout out to the excellent onebag.com for loads of handy advice on this subject – essential reading for any traveller.)

It was also the first time I’d gone travelling completely by myself (although I did meet up with a friend from uni for a a week or so in Ko Phangan). While this was a good decision too and I expect I’ll be doing it in future, it wasn’t always plain sailing and there were a few times when I struggled to meet people and felt more than a bit isolated and lonely. I know this wasn’t a problem with travelling solo per se – it was my own fault for not getting out of my comfort zone or making enough effort.

In fact, that pretty much sums up the entire problem with my trip: I didn’t make enough effort. My expectations were too high and I spent too much time waiting for the fun and adventure to come to me instead of actively seeking it out. A major lesson learned.

Okay, I’m pushing the limits of what I feel comfortable sharing now, and this all been a bit too negative. Fundamentally, I’m glad I went and despite some low points I did have a lot of good times, so I’m going to end by saying what I did enjoy:

  • SCUBA diving in Ko Tao (probably my favourite place I visited) and getting my Open Water license – something that’s been on my bucket list for years.
  • Going to a CouchSurfing meetup in Bangkok on my first night, and meeting up with Couchsurfers in a few other places. I’ve yet to meet a CSer who wasn’t a brilliant person.
  • • Vang Vieng, Laos is the most ridiculous party town I have ever been to and was probably the most mental week of my life. Nothing could have prepared me for this place. If you think you have partied hard and you haven’t been to Vang Vieng, you are wrong.
  • I spent a whole day one day in Ko Phangan zipping around the jungle aimlessly on a rented motorbike with the wind in my hair. I now understand why people love biking so much. It’s a strange combination of exhilarating speed and meditative solitude.* Very enjoyable.
  • While the infamous Full Moon Party was pretty disappointing, the Half Moon Party a week before was great and probably the best night out I had all summer.
  • Getting caught in a storm while taking the water taxi from Ko Phi Phi Lee to Ko Phi Phi Don. Visibility was near zero, the waves were taller than the boat was long and we were rocking from side to side like the earth was quaking… and (once I got over my fear of imminent death) it was one of the most breathtaking, adrenaline-soaked and memorable experiences I’ve ever had. I have never felt so alive.
  • Jungle trekking in Khao Sok national forest. Stunning scenery and a nice way to relax after some heavy partying on the islands; the only downside was having to stop every ten metres to pull leeches off my feet.

When all’s said and done, Southeast Asia is a great part of the world really. I’ll definitely be visiting it again. Maybe even soon. Ahem.

Music

This is getting ridiculous.

I told myself last January that 2012 would be the year I finally made something of music; that I’d record some songs, get better at singing, play some gigs, put a band together and do all the other things I’ve been telling myself for years and years and years that I’m going to do but somehow never make any progress on. Now, a year later, I still have very little to show for all my talk.

What I did do:

  • Play and practice guitar shitloads, just like in any other year. There’s barely been a day in the last ten years that I haven’t picked up a guitar; that’s not likely to change anytime soon. .
  • Get a couple of guitar videos up. More to come.
  • Round about April/May I tried to put a band together with one friend on guitar, another on drums and myself on bass. We jammed a fair few times and, if I may say so myself, were sounding pretty good, then it all fell apart due to the other member’s existing commitments and lack of time. I was pretty disappointed by this as I really liked the music we’d been making and felt like we were heading somewhere. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted. What’s sad is that I’ve been playing guitar for nearly ten years and this is the closest I’ve ever come to actually being in a proper band.
  • Fully finished one more song and got another three or four to the “almost done, just need a few details finalised” stage. This brings my total count to maybe six or seven songs I’ve written, most of which are unrecorded have never been heard by anyone other than me.
  • Made a couple of hundred pounds giving guitar lessons. I can’t see myself doing this as a full-time job but the extra income is always nice and I do enjoy teaching.

So I didn’t do nothing with music, but it’s still less than I could have done. I don’t know why I never get around to doing all the things with music that I say I want to do. It’s not like I haven’t had enough time. I just haven’t been making it enough of a priority. Maybe I’m scared of failure, maybe I’m scared of success. Maybe I just don’t want it enough.

I don’t even know what my musical goals are for year 23. There are some major non-musical things I want to accomplish this year that are going to have to take higher priority. Whatever the case, I’ll still be playing guitar every day and slowly but surely writing some songs that I’m happy with and proud of. We’ll see how it goes.

Books

One new year’s resolution that I did manage to keep was to read loads of books. I told myself I’d read at least 50, which is probably pretty close to what I read in the average year anyway, but this time I wanted to keep count for curiosity’s sake. As it turned out, I’ve read over 60 books in all, plus 5 to 10 that I started but didn’t finish. Almost all of them were great reads that I gained a lot from, and a few were utterly mind-blowing. I look forward to the person I’ll be in a year’s time with another 50+ books’ worth of insights in my head.

Here are some of the best books I read this year, in very rough order of when I read them. Every one of these has changed my life for the better:

  • The Education of Millionaires by Michael Ellsberg. (twice)
  • You Are Not A Gadget by Jaron Lanier.
  • The A Song of Ice and Fire series by George R R Martin. (twice)
  • The Paleo Diet by Loren Cordain.
  • Virtually You by Elias Aboujaoude.
  • The Origins of Virtue by Matt Ridley.
  • Letters from a Stoic by Seneca.
  • Anything You Want by Derek Sivers.
  • Turning Pro by Steven Pressfield.
  • Gates of Fire by Steven Pressfield.
  • Trust Me, I’m Lying by Ryan Holiday.
  • The Charge by Brendan Burchard.
  • Meditations by Marcus Aurelius. (reread it)
  • Linchpin by Seth Godin.
  • The Vegetarian Myth by Lierre Keith.
  • The Primal Blueprint by Mark Sisson
  • In Defence Of Food by Michael Pollan.
  • So Good They Can’t Ignore You by Cal Newport. (read my review here)
  • The Art of Seduction by Robert Greene.
  • The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People by Stephen Covey.
  • The Game by Neil Strauss. (reread it)
  • The War of Art by Steven Pressfield (reread it)

On a related note, I got a Kindle for Christmas 2011, and god do I love this thing. I don’t know how I ever managed without one. The future truly is here.

Facebook

Facebook is the new masturbation. Everyone does it far more than they’ll admit, and everyone judges other people for doing it too much. I’d thought about quitting Facebook for a long time, because, well, doesn’t everyone hate Facebook? It’s a moronic, soul-sucking time-sink, full of idiots, posers, 200-photo albums of the same few people standing around in the same few clubs, “I love my boyfriend so much” status updates and endless uninteresting posts about X-Factor and football. We all know this, yet we tell ourselves we “can’t do without it”, so we grin and bear it and pretend we spend less time on the site than we actually do. A few days before my 21st birthday, I decided I couldn’t take it anymore and permanently deleted my account.

… Aaaaand rejoined again after 3 months when I realised that a bunch of groups and societies I was involved with use Facebook as their sole means of communicating with their members and I couldn’t go without. I signed up with a fake name and picture and didn’t add a single person, and used FB only to check on those groups.

Then, round about September, over 9 months after taking the plunge, I gave in completely, changed my name and profile picture to my real ones and added about thirty people I know.

Yeah, so I guess I can’t do without Facebook either. It does come in handy every now and then, such as for organising events, and sometimes it’s the only way I have of contacting someone I need to contact. Such is the cost of living these days.

Still, those 9 Facebook-free months were glorious. It was astonishing just how little impact my lack of a profile had on my life – not to mention how refreshing it was.

The most important thing I gained from my Facebook fast was perspective. When you spend every day on the site, it’s easy to lose sight of just how much it screws with your head. Having taken a step back I can now see very clearly just how unhealthy Facebook is.

I’ve actually tried writing a longer post about this because I feel like I could write a LOT on this topic, but the words just wouldn’t come to me. That can wait for another day. What I’ll say for now is this: social networking is not socialising. It just feels like socialising, and that’s the danger.

Our generation is spending less and less time going outside and talking face-to-face, and I don’t like the implications. Facebook emphasises quantity over quantity, appearance over introspection and shallow, trivial bullshit over honest, meaningful relationships. I can’t imagine the damage that’s been done to kids a few years younger who grow up with Facebook throughout their entire childhoods and think that status updates a normal way to communicate.

One thing’s for certain: Facebook the company will never do anything to fix this, as the design choices that lead to healthy behaviour are the exact opposite of the choices that will make them more money. Make no mistake: Facebook is an evil corporation, and their only concern is what will make you spend more time on the site, generate more pageviews and become more and more addicted.

Two books I read this year – You Are Not A Gadget and Virtually You – really shook the way I think about Internet culture and Web 2.0, and shine a much-needed light on the dark side of technology that no-one ever wants to talk about. I highly, highly recommend them both, especially You Are Not A Gadget. The Internet is a wonderful thing, and has enormous power to change the world for the better, but it also has the power to do a lot of harm.  So far in tech circles there’s been nothing but unquestioning praising for the former; it’s time we stopped pretending the latter doesn’t exist.

Before I finish, I should confess – as much as I don’t want to, but someone will call me out  if I don’t – that for a long time I was the worst kind of Facebook user, the one you probably hid from your News Feed long ago, posting incessant pointless status updates every single day about the minutiae of my life and spamming your inbox with invites to all kinds of stupid apps. It causes me physical pain to think about how much time and energy I used to waste on the site and what an idiot I was. To the 600+ “friends” (a word that has become severely devalued) I had on my old account, I’m so, so sorry.

And to all the people who I’ve only met once, barely know or haven’t spoken to since we left school 4 years ago, stop trying to add me. I am not your friend.

In summary…

If I had to describe the last year in one word, I’d choose mixed. There have been days when I’ve felt happier than I ever remember feeling, and days when I felt so downtrodden and shitty I could hardly get out of bed. Still though, the overall trajectory of my life keeps pointing upwards, and I’m pretty happy with the amount of progress I’ve made in the last 12 months. I’m not where I want to be yet, but another few years like 2012 and I should be close.

As for 2013, I have big plans. I have a very big announcement coming soon (although most people who know me personally already know it anyway), and some clearly-defined goals I want to achieve and habits I want to install. I would write about them here, but that would make me less likely to achieve them. All I need to do now is just put the work in.

*My mum will be horrified to hear that I rode a motorcycle. Wait until she finds out I crashed it drunk. Oh, and I got a tattoo. Happy new year!

Unipreneur

I’m on the committee of a student society this year, and earlier this month I helped organise one of our events. I just put a write-up of the whole thing over on their blog – read it here.

Life Lessons From Hitch-Hiking Across Europe Twice

Hitch

I went to Croatia earlier this year. It’s a beautiful country with lots to see and do, but far more exciting than the destination was the journey: my (then) girlfriend and I hitch-hiked the entire 1200+ mile distance from Manchester to Pula. For 10 days we lived off service station food, camped on roundabouts or next to motorway on-ramps and survived completely on the kindness of strangers.

Sound crazy? What’s even crazier is it wasn’t the first time we’d done it. In 2011, we hitch-hiked a longer distance in less time, freeriding from Manchester to Morocco in six days. On both occasions we were taking part in the Hitch, an annual event where hundreds of young people from across the UK hitch-hike across Europe to raise sponsorship for the charity Link Community Development. 

When I explain the idea to people, their responses fall into two general categories:

A minority say “wow, that sounds really cool!”, and, if I’m lucky, “how can I sponsor you?”. (This is usually followed by “wait, how do you get across the Channel?”)

The most common reaction I got, however, went something like this:

“You’re going to hitch-hike?!?!?! Are you crazy?!??! You’re going to get mugged/raped/stabbed/kidnapped!!! What’s wrong with you? And how the hell do you plan on getting across the Channel?”

(We took the Dover-Calais ferry, in case you were wondering. Some things you do have to pay for.)

Of course, if you’ve ever hitch-hiked yourself you’ll know that these fears are completely unfounded, but then most people have never hitch-hiked, so time and time again I had to put up with this annoying negativity. I’d like to put forth a different point of view: not only was hitch-hiking across Europe (twice) completely safe, it was just about the best thing I’ve ever done. Nothing has been so exhilarating, so memorable, has taken me so far out of my comfort zone (in a good way) or taught me so much about myself and the world in such a short space of time. I can’t recommend enough that you let go of your baseless fears and do something similar. You might learn a few things:

People Are Basically Good

We’re too scared of everything and everyone we don’t know in the UK. It’s been ingrained into our culture and psyche over the last few decades by a constant barrage of fear-based politics and 24-hour news channels. I, for one, am sick of it, and my life improved the moment I stopped listening to those sources and started trusting my own judgement over that of advertisers.  

The percentage of murderers, rapists and psychopaths in the population is extremely low, but you wouldn’t think it to hear all these people scream to me about the dangers of hitch-hiking. We teach our children about Stranger Danger, but the real danger is that we’re becoming far too scared of the world beyond our windows, clinging on to our comfort zones and refusing to deal with anybody who isn’t background-checked, risk-assessed and providing two references.

Both years on the Hitch, I was blown away by the kindness and generosity of total strangers all across western Europe. From Spain to Slovenia, people from all walks of life drove miles out of their way to help us, bought us food, taught us their language and on one occasion even took us home and let us stay at their house overnight. Nothing weird or bad happened to us, and not once did I fear for my safety or was made to feel uncomfortable, threatened or intimidated.

Sorry to contradict what you were taught in primary school but: talk to strangers. You’ll be amazed how nice they can actually be. We have much more to gain as a society by becoming more open, compassionate and trusting in others than we have to lose by the occasional thing that goes wrong. And who knows, as you start to give the benefit of the doubt to others, you might find that they start doing the same to you.  

The World Isn’t As Dangerous As You Think

Where did this idea that hitch-hiking is so dangerous come from? One driver I met on the 2011 Hitch, an American expat living in France who took us from Poitiers to Bordeaux, hit the nail right on the head:

“I used to hitch-hike a lot when I was younger,” he told me. “It was much more common back then, but I barely see anyone doing it now.”

“Why do you think that is?” I asked.

“Fear. We have a culture of fear in the States. It drives everything – politics, journalism, business – and it’s only getting worse.”

He was talking about the USA, but it’s just as true on this side of the Atlantic. If you pay attention to the news, you could be forgiven for thinking that the world is a dangerous place. This says less about the world than it does about news media. Fear and negativity are the backbone of modern journalism, and the result of taking in all that nonsense is you start to mistake fear-mongering sensationalism for an accurate depiction of reality. 

About a year ago I made the active decision to stop reading, caring about, or paying any attention to the news or world affairs. It turned out to be one of the best and healthiest decisions I’ve ever made, and I quickly learned:

  • The vast majority of news is irrelevant, distorted, pointless babble that has absolutely no impact on your life and isn’t worth a second glance.
  • Reading the news does not increase your understanding of the world, and if anything it decreases it.
  • News consumption is bad for you, clouds your thinking, wastes your time, and has just about no upside whatsoever.

If these sound like radical claims, try it yourself and notice how much better you feel after a few weeks without your daily dose of negativity. If you still cling to the illusion that reading the news keeps you informed, the book Trust Me, I’m Lying by Ryan Holiday makes a good antidote. It’ll completely change the way you view news media and the Internet. This article is great too, and in case you’re wondering, I read both of those sources long after I quit reading the news, not before. 

I’m not denying that bad things happen, and every murder, rape or abduction is a tragedy and those responsible deserve to rot in prison for the rest of their lives. I just think we need to realise what a tiny, tiny minority of cases these actually are, and adjust our expectations accordingly.

When you start living less fearfully, you’ve got a lot to lose if things go wrong, but you’ve also got a lot to gain if things go right, and the chances of things going right are so much staggeringly higher than the chances of things going wrong that I think you’d be fool not to agree that it’s worth it.

Yes, some people – maybe a friend of a friend of someone you know? – have had bad experiences hitch-hiking. Some people have probably had bad experiences brushing their teeth too, but  what about the billions of people who haven’t? Over 8,000 people have taken part in the Hitch in the 20+ years it’s been running, and in that time there hasn’t been a single serious incident. Not one. I like those odds. 

Avoiding Risk is a Stupid Idea

Look, I’m not stupid. Obviously I know that hitch-hiking is marginally more dangerous than getting a lift from a friend, just like driving is more dangerous than getting the train and crossing the road is more dangerous than being chauffeured everywhere in a bulletproof limo by the Secret Service. Who cares?

You’ll never get anywhere in life without taking risks. There is no major achievement you can possibly make in your life – getting a promotion, running a marathon, proposing to your girlfriend, hitch-hiking halfway across Europe – that doesn’t come with some element of risk. The trick is to accept that, and know that whatever goes wrong, you can always recover. Life gets a lot more fun once you stop fearing failure and start viewing it as a learning experience. Trying and failing is far, far better than not trying at all.

This is the opposite of what we’re taught in school. Study hard so you can get a safe and secure job, follow our Health & Safety guidelines and I’m sorry, our insurance doesn’t cover that. Get your grades and don’t rock the boat. Of all the deep flaws in our education system, probably the worst is that it teaches people to be risk-averse.

We want to live in a risk-free world, where no-one ever gets injured and everything always goes according to plan. There’s nothing wrong with this goal in itself, but there comes a point where we need to start considering trade-offs. Is it really worth sacrificing fun, growth and adventure so that one less person out of a thousand dies every year? I’d much rather live in a riskier world, and I guess I’ll have to accept that that one extra person who dies might be me.

Of course, if society learns to be less risk-averse, there will be downsides. More people will die, get hurt, make mistakes and suffer. But it will be worth it. That’s life. 

Bad Things Are Always Going to Happen – What Matters is How You React to Them

As we approached Croatia, just about everything that could possibly go wrong, did. What made it more annoying was that it was all our own fault. We got on a wrong train, missed a bus, lost some important tickets, then to top it all off, I lost my wallet and my girlfriend ran out of money, leaving us stranded and helpless until she managed to borrow some funds from her unamused parents. 

(Lesson learned: never travel without an emergency reserve of cash, kept separate from the rest of your valuables.)

It sucked, and on more than one occasion I let the stress get the better of me. What was the point? It only caused arguments and made things worse.

Now, I look back on the whole experience and laugh. So why bother getting stressed out in the moment? Getting on the wrong train in Slovenia screwed up our plans for the next two days, but it ended up meaning that we got to spend an extra night in Ljubljana, which we enjoyed and made the most of.

Anger and stress have outlived their evolutionary purposes, but for now we’re stuck with them, and the best strategy is to shut them out. You can’t expect everything to go perfectly, and when things do inevitably go wrong, letting stress creep in will only make things worse.

Ultimately, you control what thoughts you let into your head. External events don’t make you angry – you do, by allowing yourself to react in that way. Of course, changing this behaviour is something that’s easier said than done, but I’m getting better at it every day.

By the way, this post first appeared months ago on the original, now-deleted version of this blog. A few weeks after I clicked “Publish”, a parcel came through my door stamped with a Slovenian postmark. Turns out that a total stranger in Ljubljana found my wallet and posted it 1000 miles at their own expense to the address on my driving license. There was no explanatory note or contact details by which I could thank them, and the wallet still had everything in it including bank card, ID and £20 in cash. Remember what I said about people being good?

One last point. I can’t really call this a ‘life lesson I learned from hitch-hiking’, because I’ve known it for years, but it’s still relevant:

Everyone Should Travel 

Because the world is huge, and even if you visited a different place every day starting today for the rest of your life, you still wouldn’t see 10% of what Earth has to offer. Travelling wide is, in my opinion, one of the most worthwhile, fun and fulfilling thing you can do with your time, and if more people travelled more often, the world would be a far better place.

And if you do travel, don’t be afraid to get in strangers’ cars, and please for God’s sake stop telling me what a dangerous choice I’m making by hitch-hiking.

 


 

If you want to take part in the Hitch yourself (and I highly recommend it), check it out here.